Destination Cispata:
A Harmony of Nature and Community
Nestled between the departments of Cordoba and Sucre, the Gulf of Morrosquillo beckons travelers from Colombia’s major cities, offering a unique blend of sun, sand, and culture. For decades, it has been a haven for sun-seekers, primarily from Antioquia and Bogotá, with Tolú and Coveñas emerging as the go-to tourist hotspots known for their expansive beaches and tranquil waters. However, as time has passed, the landscape has changed.
Today, Coveñas and Tolú have seen the rise of sprawling hotels, often owned by foreign investors, while the local population finds its livelihood in the sale of handicrafts, culinary delights, motorcycle taxi services, local guidance, sanitation, security, and more. Yet, the unchecked development comes at a cost – deforestation of the mangrove forests, improper waste disposal, and overcrowding of tourists have taken a toll on the coastal mangrove ecosystem, marshlands, and the sea. This, in turn, threatens protected areas like the Guacamayas Flora and Fauna Sanctuary, the Ciénaga La Caimanera Integrated Management District, and the San Bernardo Islands National Natural Park.
This model of tourism is gradually extending its reach to neighboring towns such as San Onofre, San Antero, and San Bernardo del Viento. As these municipalities continue to draw tourists from across the country, they face the same challenges witnessed in Tolú and Coveñas. While authorities view this trend as a success story, it comes with the peril of displacing local populations to urban centers, the sale of ancestral lands, limited opportunities for locals in low-tier jobs within the tourism sector, the erosion of age-old wisdom, and environmental damage to the mangrove ecosystems within the Integrated Management District of Cispata, La Balsa, Tinajones, and their surroundings (DMI CISPATA).
But hope glimmers in the form of DMI CISPATA, which holds the distinction of preserving the largest expanse of mangroves along the Colombian Caribbean coast, encompassing 8,570 hectares of this unique habitat. As you glide along the Sinú River aboard a boat or canoe, you’ll meander through freshwater and saltwater channels ensconced in mangroves, pass by marshes teeming with fishermen, and be captivated by the graceful herons soaring overhead. You’ll discern the hidden paths of manatees, tune your ears to the calls of titi and howler monkeys, have the privilege of spotting endangered fish species, explore conservation zones for formidable reptiles like the caiman needle, and revel in the sight of dolphins leaping through the azure sea.
The heritage of this protected area finds its roots in the tireless efforts of mangrove cultivators, fishermen, and farmers who were born and bred in this vibrant mangrove and tropical dry forest habitat. They are the descendants of social pioneers who, in the 19th century, defied powerful landowners to carve out autonomy and dignified livelihoods in these once-neglected lands. Over time, they’ve adapted to the relentless transformations of nature, relocating due to the shifting course of the Sinú River in 1945, soil salinization from rising sea levels, and evolving land use patterns stemming from riverbed erosion and sedimentation changes of the Sinú River itself.
This historically rich and naturally diverse region offers immense potential for community and scientific tourism. Through the oral traditions of its inhabitants, each site comes alive with stories. Local associations recount tales of their ancestors’ struggles and the legacy of their community organization, the ongoing efforts to preserve the tropical dry forest and mangroves, the intricacies of fishing and agriculture in these areas, the achievements of their projects, and the profound connection to rural life. For those seeking an escape from urban monotony and a chance to embrace the countryside and nature, these stories provide a captivating invitation to experience life in this enchanting region.
